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Go up or go out? On most Long Island lots, the town narrows it to one.

Back yard of a Long Island ranch house where a rear addition would go. Just Enterprise One Corp.

Most articles on this treat it as a matter of taste: the yard or the view, and whether you can stand moving out for a few months. Those are real questions, but on a typical quarter acre lot in Islip or Smithtown they come second. The zoning code and the county sanitary file have usually taken one option off the table before you weigh anything. Finding out which one costs an afternoon and saves months.

Lot coverage is the first gate, and it only applies to one option.

Lot coverage is the share of your property the building footprint may cover, and it is the first rule that separates these two options. Pushing the back wall out adds footprint and spends that allowance. A second story adds none, since the house stays on the ground it already sits on. For many houses that is the answer.

What counts as coverage catches people out. Most assume it means the house, but depending on the district it can take in a detached garage, a shed, and in some codes raised decks and patios over a certain size. A ranch with all three is closer to its cap than its owner expects.

The percentage is set by your zoning district rather than the town, so two houses four streets apart can have different ceilings. Smithtown puts the whole dimensional schedule, coverage and setbacks and height together, in one table linked from its Building Department page. Get your district letter, then read that row.

Setbacks squeeze the ground floor. Height limits squeeze the second.

Setbacks and height limits hit the two options in opposite directions. A rear addition runs into the required rear and side yard distances long before it runs out of lawn. A second story runs into the height cap and, in some districts, a rule on how close the upper wall may sit to the line.

This bites harder here than in a newer suburb, because of when Long Island got built. The post war capes and ranches filling Bay Shore, Babylon and Commack went up under rules since tightened, so plenty sit closer to a side line than today's code allows. That is legally nonconforming, which nobody minds until you propose an addition along that same wall.

Need relief from a setback and you are no longer on the building permit track alone. You are asking the Zoning Board of Appeals for a variance, a separate application with its own hearing calendar. In Islip the Building Division reviews permits against the New York State Uniform Code and the town zoning code and takes applications electronically through the Planning and Development Department, while zoning questions go through a separate office by appointment. Allow for that calendar when you pick a start date.

The sanitary file decides more than the drawings do.

If your house is on a cesspool or septic system rather than a sewer, the sanitary file matters as much as the zoning file. Suffolk County reviews sewage disposal capacity whenever you modify a house, and the figure it works from is the bedroom count, not square footage and not which direction you built.

Most people meet this rule late, after the drawings are done. The county's Office of Wastewater Management publishes a specific application for additions, remodeling and conversions of single family dwellings, and the review confirms the system meets the Suffolk County Sanitary Code for the house as it will be, not as it stands. Put a bedroom on a system sized for fewer and that system becomes part of the project.

The other version of this problem is physical, and it only hits the build out option. A sanitary system needs its tanks, its rings and a reserve area of clean ground to expand into, and that ground is in your yard, usually out back. A rear addition wants the same dirt. Plenty of Long Island projects have turned from going out to going up right there, when somebody located the system on the survey and found the new foundation drawn on top of it.

What the house underneath can actually carry.

Going up puts a whole new floor of weight onto a foundation and a first floor built for what was already there. Going out puts weight onto ground that has never carried a building. Both are solvable. They are different problems though, and only one of them stays hidden until somebody opens the walls.

A post war cape is the friendly case. It was framed with a half story upstairs in mind, so the bones already anticipate some of the load, which is why second floor work is common on that housing stock. A true ranch is harder. Its foundation and framing were sized to carry a roof, not a floor with furniture and people on it, and nobody can say what needs reinforcing until the framing is open. For structural work we bring in a licensed engineer, and those drawings are what the town reviews.

Building out has its own below grade requirement. The new foundation has to reach below the frost line and tie into the existing footing without settling at a different rate, a real risk on Suffolk County's sandy and variable soils. It is more predictable than opening up a ranch, but it is not the cheap option people assume.

What each one does to your life while it happens.

Going up opens the top of your house to the sky for a stretch of days, which on Long Island means watching the forecast and usually living somewhere else. Going out leaves you in the house behind a temporary wall, but the yard becomes a work site and often loses a tree.

Season matters more going up than going out. There is a real window here, late spring into early fall, when a house can safely be opened, and it closes as nor'easter season arrives. Start too late and the job either sits tarped through weather nobody wants to gamble on, or waits. Building out keeps the envelope closed throughout, the more forgiving schedule for a family that cannot move. On a narrow lot, the access route a crew needs to reach the back of the house sometimes settles it anyway.

How to find out which one your lot allows, in about a week.

You can answer this without hiring anybody. The information is public, it sits in three places, and a homeowner who spends an afternoon on it walks into the first design conversation already knowing which option is real. The order below matters, because each step depends on the one before it.

  1. Find your survey. It came with your closing paperwork and shows the house, the lot lines, the distances between them and, if you are lucky, the sanitary system. If yours is missing, order a new one first. Every step below reads off it.
  2. Get your zoning district. Your town assigns it by parcel and publishes a map. Every number below hangs off that letter, so guessing wastes the afternoon.
  3. Read your district's row in the dimensional table. Maximum lot coverage, minimum front, side and rear yards, maximum height. Write the four numbers down and measure your house against them on the survey.
  4. Pull the property file at the building department. You want the permit history and the certificate of occupancy. Unpermitted work from a previous owner turns up here, and it has to be cleared before a new permit is issued.
  5. Confirm whether you are sewered. If you are not, locate the system on the survey and find how many bedrooms it was approved for. That number, against the number you want, tells you whether the county joins your project.

By the end of it one option is usually obvious, and the first conversation with a builder starts at design instead of at feasibility.

Additions across Suffolk County
Call Just Enterprise One Corp. at (631) 983-8079. We have built on Long Island since 1989, we run our own crews, and we will walk the lot and get a free written quote back within one to two business days.

If you already know your direction, the next questions are the town's process and the schedule. We covered filing in what Islip, Smithtown and Babylon each want before you start, and the schedule in how long a home addition actually takes. For the work, see our home additions and framing pages. We are in West Babylon, licensed, insured and bonded, NY License #H0309970000, with 10% off for seniors and military.

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